Review by luke mehall, publisher of the climbing zine, and author of climbing out of bed, available as an ebook on kindle and nook. Nov 06, 2011 century crack part deux around a month ago, both pete and i made the first free ascent of century crack, at a vaguely guessed grade of 5. This in itself was a considerable achievement considering the committing nature of the area and the horrendous exposure on the final section. Includes their first ascent of the mindbending century crack 5. Wide boyz crack school returned crack is back reading. The monster roof crack was first climbed by wide boyz tom randall and pete whittaker in 2011 with the gear in place. From acclaimed directors paul diffley and chris alstrin comes a wild journey through the strange subculture of off width crack climbing.
It was the crack that put those twothe wide boyzon the map. Century crack grade ok, so i suppose its finally time to lay our nuts on the table and come up with a grade for century crack. Seven years after its first ascent, the notorious offwidth roof crack century crack 5. Century crack by steve crusher bartlett pete whittaker and tom randall both climbers led century crack, one right after the other have pulled off a free lead of what is quite likely the longest roof crack in the world 120 feet long. Ukc news wideboyz climb century crack placing gear. They returned later and sent it placing gear on lead. Just a few days ago was the premiere of wideboyz ii at the sheffield adventure film festival. These crack climbing clinics are going to be filled with crack addicts. Tom is a keen trad climber and has established many first ascents all over the world, mostly involving some kind of crack climbing. There have been stories of superlative climbing events over the years that have been surrounded by grading controversies, climbing style arguments and.
Post a reply to uk wide boyz climb century crack in canyonlands. This route has been touted over the years as the ultimate wide crack monster and the potential first free ascensionist would grasp a prize beyond their wildest dreams. To erase that last issue of preplacement on the first ascent, clear that last 5% of imperfection and undergo the formations terrifically crue. With jay anderson, tom randall, bob scarpelli, pete whittaker. Danny parker has made the third ascent of the offwidth called century crack 5. Im thinking of alex honnold, chris sharma and ueli steckpeople who inspire us because in climbing they have found their own personal style and expression.
We do our best to process and ship orders within 12 business days mondayfriday, excluding holidays. Danny parker, 27, made waves at the end of last week announcing that he had repeated century crack, the interminable offwidth roof crack in canyonlands, utah, first reappointed by tom randall and pete whittaker in 2011. Establishing the worlds hardest offwidth century crack followed, and the name of the wide boyz stuck. Danny parker climbed his first offwidth ever around the same time the wide boyz climbed century crack. The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange subculture rumoured to be dominated by knuckledragging, barbrawling dirtbags. Uk wide boyz climb century crack placing gear on lead. Weve been climbing together for the last 6 years or so and became a little better known when we developed a major obsession for offwidth climbing and made the first ascent of century crack in the usa. If they can achieve this unlikely climb from under the noses of the. Randall and whittakers ultimate goal is to make the first ascent of a renowned off width testpiece known as century crack, which looms above the forgotten lands deep in the utah desert.
Heres an excerpt from the wide boyz blog, discussing how the two came up with the landmark grade. Wideboy tom randall gives the hastonatora ride encouraged by pete whittaker. The century crack footage is actually fairly concise and wrapped up in quite a short period. Probably also the hardest offwidth crack ever climbed weighing in at around lowend 5. Randall and whittakers ultimate goal is to make the first ascent of a renowned offwidth testpiece known as century crack, which looms above the forgotten lands deep in the utah desert. Following the ascent of the infamous offwidth line, they were introduced to a number of other projects in.
The wide boyz are known for completing the first free ascent of century crack 5. Century crack was first located and climbed by desert rat crusher bartlett in 2001 when on the way to climb a new desert tower. To erase that last issue of preplacement on the first ascent, clear that last 5% of imperfection and undergo the formations terrifically cruel meanings one more time. If they can achieve this unlikely climb from under the noses of the competitive americans, it will be a coup for these young upstarts, but the odds are. Wideboyz climb century crack placing gear ukc news. Century crack part deux around a month ago, both pete and i made the first free ascent of century crack, at a vaguely guessed grade of 5. Tom randall climbing century crack placing the gear on lead. The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange subculture rumored to be dominated by knuckledragging, barbrawling dirtbags. The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange subculture rumoured to be dominated by knuckledragging, barbrawling, dirtbags. Hailing from salt lake city, parker may not have been on. The 120foot line was first freed by the wide boyz the uk climbers tom randall and pete whittaker who in 2011, after. There have been stories of superlative climbing events over the years that have been surrounded by grading controversies, climbing style arguments and conflicting personalities battling it out for the first ascent.
I suspect wide boyz might lure one or two climbers to enter the wide, world of offwidths. The world of offwidth crack climbing is a strange subculture. Tom randall is one of the founding members of the infamous wide boyz, as well as cofounder of lattice training and sublime climbing. Unlike the viewing of the first film of century crack, i got to have a sneak peak of the unfinished product and i have to say it made the night feel quite a bit calmer. In 2011, the wide boyzbritish offwidth aficionados tom randall and pete whittakermade the first ascent of century crack, a 5. Century crack is possibly the worlds hardest offwidth crackclimb, and was a well known project before tom and pete climbed it last month. Patagonia climbing ambassador pete whittaker takes a breather to avoid. He is known for establishing the diabolical century crack 5. Tom randall and pete whittakers new climb, century crack, is the hardest offwidth in the world.
If you recall the wide boyz film heres a good trailer, pete and his friend tom randall, who now runs lattice training, trained for 2 years in toms cellar on homemade crack systems. He aided across this monumental roof crack solo, employing a back rope only for the final barrel and lip turn. Oct 07, 2011 wide boyz tom randall and pete whittaker climb century crack in canyonlands. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. The wideboyz decided on a grade for the crack after their ascent, settling on 5. I have worked with both private individuals and members of the gb climbing team in bringing about changes in climbing performance by making adjustments in the balances of types of training that are carried out. Join tradprincess and wide boyz, tom randall and pete whittaker for a 3day crack camp spring 2020. Now thats what i call a first ascent ep4 century crack 5. Yesterday, pete and i completed a 2 year long journey a mission to make the first ascent of stevie hastons infamous century crack project in the utah desert. Tbp 144 pete whittaker of wide boyz fame on crack climbing. The century crack is the most beautiful offwidth crack i know, tom says, and if you want to be successful as a climber and reach your limits, you really do need creativity. I havent sent it yet, weve both practiced it during our last visit to utah. Nov 15, 2012 directed by chris alstrin, paul diffley. The wide boyz back in 2009, tom randall and pete whittaker made it their mission to climb the worlds hardest offwidth cracks.
In 2011 he teamed up with pete whittaker to take on the worlds hardest offwidth crack century crack, which is documented in the film wide boyz from hotaches. The tour culminates in the first ascent of the ultimate offwidth test piece, century crack, the worlds hardest offwidth. The top 10 climbing stories of 2011 outside online. Tom and petes us tour has turned out to be an historic event, hasnt it. Climbing zine readers can receive a 10% discount for wide boyz from hot aches productions, by entering promo code. Wide boyz 2012 download from rapidgator or 1fichier. Its a hell of a crack going through a roof, a truly amazing route. Ok, so i suppose its finally time to lay our nuts on the table and come up. Following the ascent of the infamous offwidth line, they were introduced to a number of other projects in the area by local developer rob. Two climbers from england, pete whittaker and tom randall, set out to explore this world and climb the worlds hardest offwidths. We discovered century crack 8c grade today and thats how it all began. The wideboyz decided on a grade for the crack after their ascent, settling on. Going back and doing century crack again now with gear in tow something that hard, repeating it had to be really really difficult to force oneself to undergo again.
Wideboyz return to century crack supertopo rock climbing. Posts about wideboyz 2 written by tomrandallclimbing. So when two proper british lads, tom randall and pete whittaker, crossed the pond to eat up the gnarliest wide cracks in the west it came as quite a shock. Post a reply to uk wide boyz climb century crack placing gear log in to reply about free stickers widgets api help. Tom randall working the immense century crack, beneath the white. The pair received some criticism for preplacing the cams for their first ascent. Oct 19, 2011 century crack grade ok, so i suppose its finally time to lay our nuts on the table and come up with a grade for century crack. Nov 01, 2018 century crack is extremely difficult, running dead horizontal for 85plus feet, beginning with 15 feet of hands to a section of big no. Mar 09, 2015 they complete a brutal twoyear training regime, mostly spent hanging upside down in a suburban sheffield basement, before embarking on a tour of the usa. Crack volumes showing all 9 results default sorting sort by popularity sort by average rating sort by latest sort by price. Bundle deal which includes both wide boyz films, century crack and cobra crack. Climbing wide cracks is a brutal and especially american pursuit practised by a small band of burly climbers. At the time, we were both pretty psyched to do the ffa seeing as wed spent 2 years training specifically for this project. Tom randall and pete whittaker were in the us for 8 weeks in search of the most difficult offwidths they could find.
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